Shawn Lyon's Alaska Hiking Trail Guides
Shawn Lyons, by vocation and avocation, lives a life of many parts. As a professional classical guitarist, he plays dinner music every Thursday through Saturday at Villa Nova Restaurant in Anchorage. When not playing guitar at Villa Nova, Shawn gives private guitar at the University of Alaska in Anchorage. There he also teaches Music Appreciation, English Composition, and Literature.
Most know him, however, as an avid hiker and hill scrambler. So much so that after many long hikes through many a valley and over many a summit, many consider him the hiking guru of South Central Alaska. In addition, as an ultra-athlete, he has won the Iditashoe wilderness snowshoe race times, and the 100-mile Coldfoot Classic, held each year on Halloween above the Arctic Circle, three times. For many years Shawn’s narratives about his hikes and races often appeared in a weekly hiking/climbing column that he writes for The Anchorage Daily News.
He now publishes articles and photographs of his hikes and climbs at his own web site: shawnlyonsbooks.com, and you can find his Walk-About Guides to Alaska in local book stores as well as online. Each hike in this guide for Alaska.org lists the book where you can find even more details on the hike.
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Hiking Trails
Family Hikes
This 2‑mile-long, famÂiÂly-friendÂly trail, which begins 90 minÂutes south of AnchorÂage at the far end of the WhitÂtiÂer TunÂnel, remains the only easy way to see Portage GlacÂiÂer on foot. And it’s has a specÂtacÂuÂlar conÂcluÂsion: After crestÂing Portage Pass, the trail drops through glacial scrub before popÂping out on the wide gravÂel shores of Portage Lake, directÂly across from the snout of gorÂgeous Portage Glacier.
If you want a great workÂout — to stunÂning mounÂtain views high above the valÂley floor below — but want to save your knees on the way down, this trail is for you. It leaves from the Alyeska Resort tram buildÂing and climbs steep switchÂbacks 2.2 miles and 2000 feet to the mid-mounÂtain restauÂrant where you can catch a free aerÂiÂal tram ride back down to the hotel.
If peoÂple sugÂgest climbÂing FlatÂtop, tell them you’d rather climb RenÂdezvous Peak. FlatÂtop is arguably Alaska’s most popÂuÂlar (and thereÂfore, most crowdÂed) mounÂtain; RenÂdezvous is far less crowdÂed and offers betÂter views from the sumÂmit. See them by hikÂing up 1,500 feet to the 4,050-foot summit.
With a length of just 1.5 miles and a sumÂmit reachÂing only 874 feet, West Butte Trail on BodenÂburg Butte — a 45-minute driÂve north of AnchorÂage — makes for a fine famÂiÂly outÂing. But even if you’re a more expeÂriÂenced hikÂer, don’t let the butte’s dwarf-like height disÂsuade you. This small bump in the cenÂter of a grand alluÂvial plain offers far-reachÂing views from its sumÂmit; plus, the climb includes a pulse-quickÂenÂing 0.25 miles of stairs up the steep ...more
SumÂmit Lake, locatÂed some 60 miles north of AnchorÂage at the crest of HatchÂer Pass, offers a short, memÂoÂrable lakeÂside ramÂble. Here you can explore the surÂroundÂing gulÂlies and slopes or just sit and watch hang glidÂers drift out over the long WilÂlow Creek ValÂley, which extends for miles from the west side of the pass.
Moderate Hikes
Many peoÂple know of the gruÂelÂing Mount Marathon raceÂcourse in Seward, some 130 miles south of AnchorÂage. HowÂevÂer, most peoÂple don’t know that there’s also a hikÂing path to the top at Race Point — and it’s far less demandÂing. This 2.25-mile route, which entails hikÂing three difÂferÂent trails, takes you up the mounÂtain and lets you to explore a glacial valÂley along the way.
This famÂiÂly-friendÂly, 2.5‑mile trail climbs 3,600 feet to a sumÂmit halfway between the sea and the heavens
It’s not as difÂfiÂcult as you might think to hike to stand atop the preÂcipÂiÂtous, gulÂly-scarred face of Bear Point. But it’s not easy, either. The 2‑mile hike ascends 2,100 feet and can be tricky. But your reward is an amazÂing view in all direcÂtions, from the Kenai PeninÂsuÂla to Denali and the Chugach MounÂtains to MatanusÂka Peak.
While many peoÂple find satÂisÂfacÂtion in climbÂing to the top of Bear Point, othÂers may wonÂder about reachÂing the sumÂmit of Mount EklutÂna, the promiÂnent peak risÂing just to the east. It involves two more miles of hikÂing, up 1,100 feet, includÂing a short, sharp scramÂble up a gravÂel trail. You can return to the Peters Creek Trail trailÂhead via an alterÂnate route, which makes for a fine loop hike.
This trail quickÂly gains eleÂvaÂtion on its way to an alpine meadÂow framed by the draÂmatÂic Twin Peaks and Goat Rock, but climbs to magÂnifÂiÂcent views overÂlookÂing the entire valÂley. Dall Sheep are often spotÂted above the timÂberÂline. From here there is a specÂtacÂuÂlar view of the lake below. This is also a good place for berry pickÂing in the fall. Because of the crushed rocks, the trail is hardÂly ever muddy.
Some 50 miles north of AnchorÂage, this 1.5‑mile trail makes for a fine famÂiÂly outÂing. From the picÂnic table at the upperÂmost end of the trail, you’ll find a satÂisÂfyÂing panoramÂic view of the MatanusÂka RivÂer and Knik RivÂer valÂleys. It’s a view as good, or betÂter, than that from many summits.
This 4.5‑mile trail, some 2 hours north of AnchorÂage on the west side of HatchÂer Pass, climbs 1,000 feet up a very typÂiÂcal TalÂkeetÂna valÂley — long, broad, and lined with towÂerÂing peaks on both sides. It also passÂes by relics and ruins of old minÂing days, when these valÂleys echoed with the sounds of picks and drills.
The FishÂhook TrailÂhead parkÂing lot is locatÂed at mile 16.5 of HatchÂer Pass Road. This area is activeÂly used year round. In the sumÂmer it’s a great area to hike and in late sumÂmer the slopes are abunÂdant with blueÂberÂries. This trailÂhead also leads to MarÂmot MounÂtain, were paraglidÂers launch from the top and land in the parkÂing lot. In the winÂter, the area draws indiÂvidÂuÂals to sled, ski and snowÂmaÂchine. This trailÂhead interÂsects with The Hatcher ...more
Big Hikes
No othÂer minÂing trail on the Kenai PeninÂsuÂla climbs as high or takes in more extenÂsive views as the 6‑mile-long Crown Mine Trail. BeginÂning some 2 hours south of AnchorÂage on the approÂpriÂateÂly named Mine Road just south of Trail Lake, this trail climbs to 3,900 feet above sea levÂel to a unique spot — a glacial cirque litÂtered with minÂing paraphernalia.
PriÂmarÂiÂly built to proÂvide pack-rafters and kayakÂers access to the headÂwaÂters of TwenÂtymile RivÂer, this 9‑mile-long trail has also proved a draw for hikÂers — and with good reaÂson. Just 45 minÂutes south of AnchorÂage, it makes for a very scenic hike into some high, wild, glacÂiÂer-girtÂed country.
Want to feel dwarfed by Alaska’s mounÂtains? Take a 2‑hour driÂve north on the Parks HighÂway and then up HatchÂer Pass Road, where you’ll find this 2‑mile-long ATV trail — a wide but occaÂsionÂalÂly steep path that leads to the crest of Box Lake Ridge. From the big, roundÂed top of this ridge, you can’t help but feel overÂwhelmed by the enorÂmous TalÂkeetÂna MounÂtains that surÂround you.
A straightÂforÂward trip with big scenery payÂoffs, like the picÂturesque Mint Hut and a valÂley dotÂted with hangÂing glacÂiÂers. This trip is a great first backÂpackÂing trip in AlasÂka with simÂple logisÂtics. It’s 16 miles with options for addiÂtionÂal miles and side trips.
SynÂcline MounÂtain feaÂtures two sumÂmits— whichevÂer you choose, you’ll hike beneath a whole lot of sky and look out on a whole lot of country.
Big Climbs
ReachÂing the sumÂmit of Avalanche MounÂtain takes a conÂsidÂerÂable amount of effort: a 5.5‑mile hike up PowÂerÂline Trail folÂlowed by a 1.5‑mile off-trail scramÂble. But this 3,200-foot climb — which begins at the Glen Alps parkÂing area, just 10 miles from downÂtown AnchorÂage — takes no mounÂtaineerÂing skills. If you feel at all comÂfortÂable hikÂing and climbÂing over some loose stones and boulÂders, you should find this to be a very gratÂiÂfyÂing adventure. ...more
You don’t have to be a mounÂtaineer to reach the sumÂmit of O’Malley Peak — the promiÂnent spire risÂing from the Front Range above AnchorÂage — but don’t misÂtake it for an easy climb. Some of the 5‑mile-long trail climbs quite steeply; othÂer parts add very loose gravÂel to the incline. Still, these conÂdiÂtions don’t make this hike excesÂsiveÂly danÂgerÂous, just satÂisÂfyÂingÂly laborious.
Black Tail Rocks is a very airy climb that stretchÂes to 4,446 feet above Eagle RivÂer, a town locatÂed just north of AnchorÂage. It’s a jourÂney that involves only a minÂiÂmal amount of hand-over-hand scramÂbling; you’ll be folÂlowÂing a trail for most of the 4‑mile, 2,750-foot hike. And you’ll have a fine view from the top, lookÂing up the length of the secludÂed MeadÂow Creek ValÂley and well into the deep inner reachÂes of the Chugach Mountains.
No offiÂcial trail in SouthÂcenÂtral AlasÂka climbs as high as MatanusÂka Peak Trail. BeginÂning in a subÂdiÂviÂsion across the MatanusÂka RivÂer from Palmer, this nearÂly 6‑mile-long trail runs up some 5,700 verÂtiÂcal feet. Your desÂtiÂnaÂtion is the 6,119-foot sumÂmit of MatanusÂka Peak, the very promiÂnent rock spire that fills the sky just east of Palmer. But despite the imposÂing appearÂance of this mounÂtain, the trail to its sumÂmit requires no extensive ...more
BeginÂning almost 120 miles northÂeast of AnchorÂage on the Glenn HighÂway, the trail to the sumÂmit of GunÂsight MounÂtain takes a while to reach. After all, it involves a 3.5‑mile, 3,300-foot climb through some very big counÂtry. But the view from the top makes for an all-day excurÂsion that you won’t easÂiÂly forget.
Hikes to Lakes & Seashores
BeginÂning 103 miles south of AnchorÂage on the Seward HighÂway, the 3.5‑mile-long PtarmiÂgan Lake Trail makes for a fine famÂiÂly outÂing. The lake itself is a long and narÂrow body of water squeezed between ridges and mounÂtains that towÂer as high as 6,000 feet. It even offers a small beach upon which to relax and enjoy the view while coolÂing your feet.
If you only have a limÂitÂed amount of time in AnchorÂage but want go out for a great hike, conÂsidÂer KinÂcaid Bluff Trail. Just a 20-minute driÂve from downÂtown AnchorÂage, this is a 6‑mile loop hike to KinÂcaid Chalet. Along the way, you’ll find 3 miles of rugged trail that skirt the sumÂmit of preÂcipÂiÂtous bluffs at the end of the AnchorÂage Peninsula.
Trail head begins by traÂversÂing priÂvate land, but an easeÂment has been proÂvidÂed for such. Easy to bike, ski, run or walk to mild slope with a wide sides, makÂing is safe from avalanchÂes in the winÂter. Should you choose to turn left at the start, you can go to Flat Top as an alterÂnaÂtive route or Peak 2 or 3, dependÂing how far down you go down the trail before turnÂing left. PtarÂmaÂgan Peak would be a more promiÂnate peak just before the RabÂbit creek ...more
This 7‑mile hike, which begins in the mounÂtains just above AnchorÂage, takes you to the numerÂous WilliÂwaw Lakes, all of which are clusÂtered below the sheer north face of Mount WilliÂwaw — the highÂest peak in the Front Range.
Rarely do two lakes lie withÂin a few feet of each othÂer. ForÂtuÂnateÂly, the trail to see this geoÂlogÂiÂcal rarÂiÂty begins just a 30-minute driÂve north of AnchorÂage. From the trailÂhead for South Fork Eagle RivÂer Trail, it’s a gradÂual 4.8‑mile (one-way) climb up a wide valÂley, leadÂing to a narÂrow isthÂmus between the green waters of Eagle Lake and the blue waters of SymÂphoÂny Lake.
As you approach the IndeÂpenÂdence Mine ParkÂing Lot, the trail can be seen to the far right end. It crossÂes over a small bridge, and winds up past an old abanÂdoned minÂing cabÂin, and then up a debris field and finalÂly to the lake. Round trip, the hike is almost 2 miles, and the eleÂvaÂtion gain is approxÂiÂmateÂly 600 feet. The trail can be mudÂdy and wet for the first .25 miles, but it’s worth the hike to see Gold Cord Lake, and a great view of the Mine ...more
Hikes to Waterfalls
This leisureÂly, 0.75-mile trail begins just south of WhitÂtiÂer, a litÂtle seaÂside town locatÂed some 2 hours south of AnchorÂage. The trail doesn’t climb much, but it will take you high enough to get an unobÂstructÂed view of numerÂous waterÂfalls, includÂing the long-dropÂping waters of HorseÂtail Falls as it sheets over the sheer rock face of BlackÂstone Ridge.
ConÂsidÂered to be one of the best hikes in all of the Chugach MounÂtains, Crow Pass folÂlows a porÂtion of the origÂiÂnal IdiÂtarÂod Trail, includÂing its highÂest point. End to end, it’s a 21-mile trail, which most peoÂple do in 2 days, but just the first 4 miles will lead you past some breathÂtakÂing scenery. Along the way you’ll find glacÂiÂers, waterÂfalls, wildÂflowÂers, wildlife, mine ruins, and berries (in late August and SepÂtemÂber). HikÂing is not ...more
This is a popÂuÂlar, 4.3‑mile-long (8.6 round-trip) trail locatÂed 2 hours north of AnchorÂage in the HatchÂer Pass area. It’s also gorÂgeous. At one point it climbs directÂly alongÂside a sheet of waterÂfalls falling from a wide granÂite ledge. As the trail winds its way to these falls, it passÂes the lake into which the falls drain. And after the falls, the trail ends at the tarn from which the falls drain. In othÂer words, hike this trail and you’ll see a ...more
The 5‑mile-long Eska Falls Trail is locatÂed a 2‑hour driÂve north of AnchorÂage in the mounÂtains above the town of SutÂton. And it leads to one of nature’s symÂmetÂriÂcalÂly framed wonÂders — a 100-foot waterÂfall locatÂed at the end of a mile-long valÂley that’s flanked by two masÂsive sumÂmits. This setÂting makes Eska Falls not so much a hike to a desÂtiÂnaÂtion as much as a hike to a presentation.
Hikes to Glaciers
This short day hike — with an easÂiÂly accesÂsiÂble trailÂhead a few hunÂdred meters from the Begich BogÂgs VisÂiÂtor CenÂter — offers you big views of the Byron Glacier.
It’s not very often that peoÂple can see a glacÂiÂer in an untamed and remote locaÂtion, far from any road or cruise-ship route. But if you feel capaÂble and conÂfiÂdent enough to climb a very rough trail up many verÂtiÂcal feet of rocky terÂrain, then you might conÂsidÂer underÂtakÂing the hike to SnowÂbird Pass, locatÂed high in the TalÂkeetÂna MounÂtains just north of HatchÂer Pass. From this vanÂtage point you can look down the entire length of SnowÂbird Glacier. ...more
Off-Trail Adventures
If you have some outÂdoor expeÂriÂence and an advenÂturÂous spirÂit, conÂsidÂer this 11-mile traÂverse up the ColÂorado Creek valÂley and down the SumÂmit Creek. BeginÂning 2 hours south of AnchorÂage, this traÂverse doesn’t involve any rock scramÂbling, rivÂer crossÂings, or arduÂous bushÂwhackÂing. But if you feel comÂfortÂable hikÂing in wide and trackÂless counÂtry, you may reap the reward of havÂing an entire valÂley to yourself.
You’ll have a hard time losÂing your way on this 2.5‑mile climb of 4,301-foot-high McHugh Peak. You’ll also have a hard time forÂgetÂting the view from the sumÂmit, which extends up the length of TurÂnaÂgain Arm and across Knik Arm to the AlasÂka Range. It’s even more satÂisÂfyÂing knowÂing that you found your way to the sumÂmit with only minÂiÂmal help from the trail.
If you only have a litÂtle expeÂriÂence doing off-trail hikÂing, then this scenic 5‑miler will help you get a bit more under your belt. BeginÂning on RabÂbit Creek Trail, in the Front Range just above AnchorÂage, this hike visÂits a surÂprisÂingÂly expanÂsive and scenic plateau that remains hidÂden from sight until you actuÂalÂly climb to it.
Not everyÂone should underÂtake this 13-mile traÂverse that begins at Glen Alps above AnchorÂage. ConÂsidÂerÂable off-trail hikÂing, plus a steep climb to a ridge top, might be outÂside your comÂfort zone. But this trail does offer a proÂfound sense of soliÂtude and some specÂtacÂuÂlar views. It also includes the novÂelÂty of hikÂing a mile-long sheep trail that traÂversÂes the back of The Wedge, some 500 feet above the secludÂed waters of Ship Lake.
Cardio Workouts
Don’t expect to run very much of this world-famous race route, which begins 2.5 hours south of AnchorÂage and climbs nearÂly 3,000 feet from downÂtown Seward. Though the first part of the route is very runnable, the next 1.5 miles climb Mount Marathon and are too steep and rocky for most to run. Just the hike itself makes for a very intenÂsive workout.
A short road called Konikson locatÂed just past Bird Ridge headÂing east will take you to the trailÂhead. Stay to the right until you see a trail about a quarÂter mile in going right and up. The trail folÂlows a small drainage, and quickÂly gets past the tree line.
Are you a mounÂtain runÂner lookÂing for a tough workÂout? ConÂsidÂer PioÂneer Ridge Trail. This trail, locatÂed a 1‑hour driÂve north of AnchorÂage on scenic Knik RivÂer Road, climbs some 5,200 feet over its 6 miles. OthÂer trails, like Lazy MounÂtain Trail and Mount Marathon Race Route, may be steepÂer or rockÂiÂer, but no trail in the Chugach MounÂtains climbs so steadiÂly for so long as PioÂneer Ridge.
Why Take This Hike This trail, locatÂed 90 minÂutes north of AnchorÂage just across the MatanusÂka RivÂer from downÂtown Palmer, makes no preÂtense about its purÂpose. Almost immeÂdiÂateÂly after leavÂing the parkÂing area, it begins to climb straight up the steep west face of Lazy MounÂtain. For some 2,000 feet, there’s nary a switchÂback or respite as the trail winds up to the sumÂmit ridge. It’s a truÂly breathÂless workÂout. The Details Out of Palmer,… ...more
BeginÂning a 1‑hour driÂve north of AnchorÂage in GovÂernÂment Hill RecreÂation Area, GovÂernÂment Peak Race Trail offers a fine opporÂtuÂniÂty for a hard workÂout; it climbs some 3,700 verÂtiÂcal feet in just 3 miles. Plus, this climb doesn’t include any extraÂorÂdiÂnary danÂgers. (A friend refers to one short ledge on this trail as ​“death rock,” but she tends to exagÂgerÂate.) Some secÂtions require speÂcial care to negoÂtiÂate, but you won’t have to traÂverse any ...more
Wheelchair-Accessible Hike
If you have the abilÂiÂty to transÂport bicyÂcles, this trail makes for a great afterÂnoon trip. The dirt path winds through the Portage ValÂley, passÂing glacial lakes and endÂing at Portage Lake (this part of the trip is 5 miles each way). Make sure to bring your camÂera: you’ll see hangÂing glacÂiÂers and, very likeÂly, some wildlife.
This trail has its own sitÂting area and viewÂing deck with views of AnchorÂage, the AlasÂka Range, and Cook Inlet. It is realÂly good for seeÂing sunÂsets in the evening but it is also windy. The whole route is wheelÂchair accesÂsiÂble. This is a good short hike for the famÂiÂly to see the view over AnchorÂage, but not a good trail for the trainÂing runner.
This trail is less than a mile, and very kid friendÂly. Two viewÂing decks offer views lookÂing down the impresÂsive valÂley, and wildlife is often seen here. Beaver Pond is also part of the show, and salmon spawnÂing can be seen in late August through SepÂtemÂber. This popÂuÂlar trail is usuÂalÂly packed with walkÂers, strollers, and the famÂiÂly dog — all easÂiÂly accomÂmoÂdatÂed. The trail is wheelÂchair accesÂsiÂble and begins on a wide, slightÂly downÂhill path to ...more
This short, paved trail is an hour’s driÂve north of AnchorÂage in southÂern WasilÂla. It leads out to a bluff on Palmer Hay Flats — a large stretch of wetÂlands with all kinds of wildlife. There, a viewÂing platÂform overÂlooks the flats and the Chugach MounÂtains beyond.