Twelve miles up Eagle River valley is a facility whose identity has changed dramatically over the years. Today it's a nature center catering to hikers, skiers, families, and tourists. Before that it was a visitor center. But it started out as a bar, tinged with cigarette smoke, beer breath, and the sound of engines revving on a nearby racetrack. Locals made up their own rules back then. Take Eagle River Road all the way to the end to see for yourself.