There’s no arguing that one of the best ways to explore Alaska is by its coastal waters — but not everyone wants a traditional cruise.
If that’s you, consider the Alaska Marine Highway, which offers the scenic beauty of a cruise yet puts you in charge of your own itinerary, free to stop and go as you chart your own course.
It’s a cruise but not a "cruise." Some people take the ferries because they like the idea of a trip by sea — ports, scenery, whale-watching — but don’t want any "Love Boat" frippery. The ferries are basic but clean and comfortable. You’re here because you want to focus on what’s off the boat, not on it.
Getting off the beaten path. The itineraries mix the big-name ports of call with lesser-known Native Alaska communities. You can explore villages off the tourist grid and travel alongside Alaska residents.
Connecting the dots. It’s a great way to link far-flung segments of an Alaska odyssey. Car drivers, RVers and backpackers use the ferries to traverse sections of Alaska that are too time-consuming (or even impossible) to do by land.
The Alaska Marine Highway has been running since 1963, offering stops to 30 Alaska communities, as well as service to Prince Rupert, British Columbia, and Bellingham, Wash.
You can walk, take a bicycle or drive your own vehicle aboard.
You pay a rate based on how far you’re going, whether you book a cabin or whether you take a vehicle (and perhaps by how large that vehicle is — such as RVs).
Pets are allowed, as long as they’re contained in a carrier or vehicle for transit.
The ferries in the 11-vessel fleet carry as many as 600 people or as few as 100.
When your ferry stops in a port, you can either get off and walk around for a few hours or drive off and spend a few days. Maybe you’ll get back on the ferry to head elsewhere or keep driving to your own destinations.
The AMHS’s reservation agents can help you map out an itinerary if you need guidance — whether you want to create a contained cruise vacation or as part of a larger trip.
You can book a cabin. If your ferry ride extends across a few days, you can book bunk-bed style cabins, which sleep up to four.
You can camp. Some travelers just set up camp on a deck chair in the solarium, while plenty of people even pitch a tent on the deck and sleep under the stars.
You get onboard amenities. Most ferries offer observation decks, cocktail lounges, an arcade, reading room and kids playroom.
You meet onboard experts. Mainline routes offer rangers from the Park Service or the Department of Fish and Wildlife who can help highlight the islands, glaciers and wildlife (read: lots of whales) that you’ll see along the way.
You’ll want a little gear. If you book a cabin, confirm what amenities are offered; it can vary among vessels. Otherwise, overnight guests can bring a tent and sleeping bag or a cot to sleep on the deck or in the lounge. If you plan to camp, bring a foam mat for extra comfort.
This is the classic Alaskan cruise route — but with a down-to-earth twist. You’ll start in either the Lower 48, embarking from Washington State or Prince Rupert in British Columbia and head north to big-name ports such as Ketchikan, Juneau, Sitka and Skagway. But, you’ll also have the opportunity to explore small, thriving Native Alaska communities, such as Hoonah and Kake.
This is a prime route for independent travelers who, in most cases, mainly want a driving trip but don’t want to drive all the way from the U.S. or Canada. Sailing from Prince Rupert and getting off at Whittier, you’re deposited right at the roadhead for the main highway system. From there, you have a straight shot to either the Kenai Peninsula or Anchorage and from Anchorage on to Denali.
Ports: Prince Rupert, Ketchikan, Juneau, Yakutat, Whittier.
Prince William Sound to Kodiak Island
If you don’t want a long cruise experience, this route may be for you. This route offers a variety of good 2- or 3-day trips. Using the ferry to explore the Prince William Sound ports is a popular weekend trip for Alaska locals, or take a few days to see the bears at Kodiak Island, a great mini-trip for any travelers who want to get off the beaten path. At ports on the Kenai Peninsula and Cook Inlet, you also have easy drives to Chugach State Park for day hikes.
Ports: Cordova, Tatitlek, Valdez, Chenega Bay, Whittier, Seldovia, Homer.
The Aleutian Chain
This route is a big hit with independent travelers — especially those who have either been to Alaska before and are ready for something more remote or for those who just want a rugged, off-the-grid itinerary. The islands are lightly populated and are excellent spots for hiking, cycling and bird watching — and they also boast 119 state parks.
This route has very limited service, so potential travelers should plan well in advance.
Ports: Dutch Harbor, Akutan, False Pass, Cold Bay, King Cove, Sand Point, Chignik, Kodiak, Port Lions, Homer.
Ferries run year round. Ferries run year round, though their prime summer schedule runs from May 1 to Sept. 30. Departure times vary by day on certain routes.
Fares come in components. Prices depend on the distance of your trip, whether you take a vehicle and whether you book a cabin. See Sample Itineraries and Prices.
Check for regular discounts and specials. Children ages 6 to 11 ride for half price, while kids under 6 ride free.
Check the Specials link on the web site for other discounts and seasonal travel specials, such as Driver Goes Free!
Bellingham, Wash., to Skagway: Great for RVers who want to set out from the Lower 48 but don’t want to drive the whole way.
Sailing time: 67 hours, or almost three days.
One-way cost: For two two adults, you’d pay $726 for two adult fares ($363 each), $393 for a cabin with 2 berths (for 4 berths, you’d pay $535) and $976 for a 19-foot vehicle.
Total for two people: $2095.00
A week in Southwest Alaska: Valdez to Whittier, combined with Homer to Kodiak. This cruise works well with a popular driving circuit through some of America’s most beautiful highway scenery. From Whittier, you drive to Anchorage along Turnagain Arm, and from there to Valdez along the Glenn and Richardson Highways — seeing Alaska’s largest roadside glaciers and highest waterfalls. Back at Whittier, you can drive south to the Kenai Peninsula or enjoy up-close glacier day cruises in Prince William Sound.
Sailing time: 6.5 hours on the first leg, 12 hours on the second leg.
One-way cost: For two people: $178 + $148 ($89 and $74 per person for each leg), and $302 ($123 + $179) for a 19-foot vehicle ($105 and $152 for a car up to 15-feet). Using a cabin would add $160 ($70 + $90 for the two legs).
Total for two, with RV: $788.00
Coast Plus Inland: Price Rupert to Whittier. This trip drops you at a great launching spot to get you up to Denali by car or the Alaska Railroad. Plus, you get gorgeous marine scenery.
Sailing time: 71 hours (three days).
One-way cost: For two people, $744 ($372 each) regular fare; $290 for 2-berth cabin ($557 for 4 berths); and $1,005 for a 19-foot vehicle ($843 with regular car, up to 15 feet).